The Great Hair Debate: Which Extension Method Is Perfect For My Client?

Let's be honest here: It doesn't take a detective to figure out that hair extensions are the biggest trend in the beauty industry right now. We're not just talking about something "seasonal" —we're talking about a trend that has been around for years and shows no signs of going away soon. And honestly, we can't blame people for wanting them! They just simply help everyone make their ponytail dreams and mermaid waves come true.

But as much as we'd like to get our magic on for everyone in a snap, we as stylists have to be realistic. We cannot just recommend a keratin bond or beaded row to every client who walks into our salon! There are many factors that come into play when deciding which method is best for your client, including time, budget, lifestyle, and even hair type.

So how exactly do we choose the best hair extension method? To help you determine the best way to get the job done, we'll be breaking down everything for you in today's post.

Keratin Bond

Perfect for clients with fine or thin hair, this installation method is one of the classic ways to add volume and length. If your client is willing to spend 2 to 6 hours in the chair and is looking for a long-lasting bond, this is the perfect method for them. Here, you'll be working with aspecial type of hair extension, which comes with a square-shaped keratin protein bond at the tips that you'll melt to fuse the extensions seamlessly into their hair. When it cools, hardened keratin helps create a durable bond.

If your client is suffering from alopecia or is dealing with stress-related hair loss, this installation method is ideal for them since they are attached strand by strand near the roots of the hair, letting them achieve a glorious "thickened" crown. 

Pros of Keratin Bond

• Keeps your client's natural tresses healthy, so they can have beautiful and healthy hair at the same time
• Can last up to 3-4 months, depending on how well they take care of them and how fast their hair grows
• Works like magic when it comes to creating an undetectable and natural look, thanks to the unique placement of the bonds, allowing you full creative control with your installation
• Clients can easily style their extensions just as you would with their real hair.

Cons of Keratin Bond

• The time-intensive application can be frustrating for some clients 
• Not all clients are fond of using heat on their hair
• Client needs to delay getting bonds wet (ie: washing, swimming, etc) for 24-48 hours

Beaded Row

The beaded row installation method is one of the most popular options today, as this can work with almost anyone and does not require a lot of time to apply. So even if your client has wispy ends or fine hair density, you can suggest the beaded row to them.

The beaded row makes use of a "track" using silicone-lined nano beads and string technique. The wefts are then placed on the track and sewn in to create a full and voluminous look. 

Pros of Beaded Row

• No adhesives or chemicals are used when attaching hair extensions
• Perfect for hand-tied and flat wefts
• The installation time is shorter at approximately 2 to 4 hours
• When installed correctly, there'll be zero damage and discomfort after application
• Unlimited styling possibilities without exposing the beads or track at all

Cons of Beaded Row

• Not suitable for clients with sensitive scalps and those struggling with alopecia
• Full removal & reinstall is necessary every 6-8 weeks, as they cannot be moved up while installed.

Tape In Method

Looking for an efficient way to transform your client's hair? The tape-in method is the key to creating that Instagram-ready look without having to commit to timlier methods. Unlike the previous methods in this list, the wefts you'll use do not have to be attached using keratin bonds or beads, as you'll mainly be using the pre-taped sides of the extensions to your client's hair. The best part is that the whole process can take 1-2 hours for a full install!

Pros of Tape In

• Easy to apply, remove, and maintain
• Less damaging to your client's hair as it does not require any tools or heat
• Depending on how fast their hair grows, tape-ins should last anywhere from 6-10 weeks after installation
• Comfortable to wear and can be styled as desired

Cons of Tape In

• Can cause discomfort or itching if not applied properly
• Client needs to delay getting bonds wet (ie: washing, swimming, etc) for 24-48 hours
• Can be costly, depending on the number of wefts to be installed

Flip Up Method

This is the newest method in the hair extension installation process and something that we bet your clients will love! It takes on the basic process from the beaded row method and introduces a new sewing pattern for an elegant and seamless look. The best part about it is that it can hold up hairstyles really well and is gentle on natural hair.

Pros of Flip Up

• Newest hair extension installation method on the market
• Installation time can last anywhere between 2 to 4 hours
• Longer intervals between maintenance appointments
• No adhesives or special tools needed
• Easier for your client to conceal when wearing hair up

Cons of Flip Up

• Not recommended for people with sensitive scalps and those dealing with hair loss
• Can be expensive, depending on the number of wefts needed and installation time during reinstalls

Ready to offer these hair extension installation methods in your salon? Sign up for Philocaly's Extension Education classes to master any of these techniques.

Over to you!

As we learned in this post, there is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all approach when it comes to hair extension installs. Depending on your client's hair condition and the look they are aiming for, you can recommend the method that you think will work best for them. While it can be tempting to stick with your tried and true method, remember that you are the expert, and your clients will always appreciate your help in finding the right solution for them.